Gold-metallic textile and gold-silver lace in women’s headwear of the XVIII century: results of research in the archaeological textile from Nizhniy Novgorod
Journal: Povolzhskaya Arkheologiya (The Volga River Region Archaeology) (Vol.3, No. 13)Publication Date: 2015-09-25
Authors : Orfinskaya О.V.; Shapiro B.L. Moscow; Russian Federation;
Page : 92-111
Keywords : archaeological textiles; XVIII century; headwear; gold-metallic threads; gold; lace; Pietro Rotari;
Abstract
The article deals with research results of women's headwear, which was discovered during archaeological excavations the necropolis at Verhneposadskaya St. Nicholas Church in Nizhny Novgorod. The structure of the textile and lace, the headwear cutting, the location of lace, and the time of its creation have been determined in the course of study. Most attention has been given to the gold-metallic threads. Technological classification of goldmetallic archaeological threads from different historical periods is considered in the article. The headwear was made of gold brocade of tinsel thread. It can be attributed to the mid or low value for the price. At the same time the good quality threads were used in the silver lace. According to the analysis of types and kinds of women's headgear in Western fashion the time of creation a cap under study is determined as the middle or second half of the XVIII century. Dating is supported by results of the lace research. It is a typical XVIII century fan-shaped agramant named ?vilyushka?. Overall research results became a possible reconstruction of headdress. It is a small cap decorated with metallic lace along a bottom edge and the axis of symmetry of the forehead to the nape of the neck.
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