The Effect of Wear and Softeners on the Sewability of Woven Structures

The current study is a complementary research work to evaluate the effect of the wear caused on the sewability efficiency of fabric during marker laying and handling in garment making process and to propose preventive ways by textile softener application. Literature and previous research work have shown that the needle penetration force is associated with the ease of stitching process and hence the sewability property of the fabric. Needle penetration force can be reliably measured using L& M sewability tester. The rigid structure of the woven fabrics is known to generate high needle penetration forces and to be susceptible to wear. The use of the Martindale apparatus is known to produce reliable and reproductive results of wear and has been used to lightly abrade the samples as a simulation of the light wear caused in the previously mentioned stages of marker laying. In addition, softeners are known for their capability to lubricate the fabric surface and in change the coefficient of friction, affecting wear and friction of the penetrating needle. The effect of softener presence on the needle penetration force exerted by the lightly abraded lubricated and non-lubricated samples was evaluated before and after wear and the percentage mass losses were measured.